Farewell Denmark

Farewell Denmark.  We really have loved our stay.  Sjaellands Odde in the region of Odsherred has been our home for the last week and the beauty here has really captured us.  It is not just the place.  It's also the Danish people so warm and eager for others to enjoy the best of their country that's made it a great place to relax in.  Our summer house is about 150m from the beach down a little dirt track, our deck is as large as the house itself and the weather has been kind making both pretty blissful. Having a hire car and the freedom to explore without relying on transport has also been a treat. The LF is doing a sterling job sticking to the right hand side of the road (thanks LF I am glad it is you doing the driving).  A hire car has also meant local radio stations and one song in particular which has followed us from country to country.... Daft Punk's, Get Lucky. We can't seem to escape it.  In supermarkets, cafes, on public transport, blaring from passing cars, it's everywhere.  Our time here has been slow and we have embraced filling our days with 'nothing' wholeheartedly.  The real highlight of this leg has been about the 3 of us relaxing together, playing table tennis, board games, cooking, music, walks, swimming and sleeping in.  I totally recommend a pit stop like this for every (traveling) family.

Next we are off to Prague. A city that makes me nervous with anticipation. Again, it's been over 21 years since my last visit. The Czech Republic was still part of Czechoslovakia and it was only 3 years previously that the Velvet Revolution had caused the collapse of the communist regime.  I so loved the city full of post communist charm. I expect to see change, A LOT of change. There was no McDonald's (hooray!), only 2 bueauro de change in the whole city, and very few tourists.   We were billeted out by a man at the train station to stay with a family, in Skalka.  The family rented a room to tourists who arrived from Berlin on the overnight train. Tourism hadn't really kicked off. The nightlife was near impossible to find...yet find we did.  Nightclubs hidden down side alleys in the deserted bunkers of impressive old buildings. You paid for a beer jug as you were security frisked on the way in and it was self serve at the trough after that. Rounding every corner was like walking through a dream. The buildings so spectacularly beautiful. Entering the post office and the department stores we had to apprehensively navigate our way through thick red velvet curtains, a hangover from communist times, unsure what we would find on the other side.  I'm holding my breathe, hoping to be charmed again.  Time will tell.

PS. 21 years ago when I was backpacking around Europe I remember the song that followed us then was this one...... Have you had a song, for better or worse, follow you on a trip?

The summer house in Sjaellands Odde, Denmark

We hired a 'Summer House' in the Odsherred region north west of Copenhagen.  It has been one of our best decisions to date.  The area is stunning.... although I think most of Denmark is pretty incredible (next time I would love to head to Thy).
It is so relaxing here.  Our days consist of beach walking, table tennis, board games and once a day we take a car trip to explore the local region for an hour or two.  Z and I braved a swim in the ocean and we even managed to coax the LF in with our squeals of delight.....it was freezing.  The dune walks have been blustery and wild but it's fun spying the gorgeous summer houses hidden in the trees.
The three of us have loved our time here and enjoyed the time off from traveling, sightseeing and generally being on the go.  Even though we have planted ourselves in cities for at least a week to 10 days in most places it takes a fare amount of organisation to find the closest supermarket, navigate rail systems and find your way around with a 5 year old in tow.  Being here with little to do has been such a welcomed reprieve, one we have all relished.
My friend A, who we stayed with in Norway, is arriving today to stay a few nights.  We are all looking forward to the table tennis championships which will no doubt unfold and sharing this space with friends.  I love the feel of holiday houses....the mix-matched crockery, well worn floorboards, board games, saggy beds and the general ease.  Sound systems are basic, TV's non existent and kitchens sparse.  It's often too the place where the best memories are made ........ making a mockery of our well equipped homes and overstuffed cupboards!

Other things I have loved so far;
the Rorvig flea market
these slippers at Salka Valka
the early houses of Friis & Moltke
the idea of this holiday hideout
a meal here
practicing The Art of Eating Chocolate Mindfully
& doing.......... very little. xx

Copenhagen

We spent four days in Copenhagen staying in a fantastic apartment on Nansengade.  It was a beautiful apartment belonging to a family of 4 who took the opportunity to spend a week up on the coast while we rented their place.  There was such a great feel to the home and we enjoyed just hanging out there, cooking meals and playing in the communal garden, 5 floors below.  It was close to the Norreport station and in total a 15minute train ride from the airport, door to door.  Everything in Copenhagen was within walking distance.

We did a canal tour on the first day to get our bearings.  Copenhagen is such a beautiful fusion between old and new.  

We especially enjoyed the Playhouse, by architects Lundgaard & Tranberg, where we were privy to an informal opera in the foyer as part of their summer festival.  Z thought it was absolutely hilarious and couldn't quite understand why boys would really want to sing like that??  So seduced by the building and the sunshine we ate lunch at Cafe Ofelia overlooking the harbour.

We landed in town at the same time as the Jazz Festival so the streets were awash with roaming performers & crowds of people at the many stages scattered about the city. We watched a great performance by the Reverend Shine Snake Oil co. outside the Rundetaarn. We also spent a gorgeous afternoon in the Kings Garden (Kongens Have) surrounding Rosenborg Castle listening to a free concert while playing yatzee amidst the sun loving Danes. It was pretty blissful and Z was in his element grooving to the tunes with me while the LF took a nap and rested his weary foot.

The Copenhagen Sand Sculpture Festival was also on along Havengade featuring 30 international artists & 17 sands cultures.  Some as large as 10 meters tall and built from 3000 tons of sand.  They were all based on theme 'Mythes & Legends' and detailed some very interesting viewpoints on current society!

The Tivoli Gardens were so beautiful.  It is one of the oldest amusement parks in the world and more like Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory than an amusement park. We took our own picnic and spent an evening here reliving our childhood.  The LF and I taking it in turns to ride the roller coasters with the Z man, who has developed an insatiable thirst for fast rides.  He definitely inherited my thrill seeking tendencies and not the LF's tummy turning nauseousness when it comes to adventure parks.  I wanted to ride on the tallest carousel in the world but unfortunately the Z man was about 10cm's off riding this and as I had a companion ticket I couldn't go it alone. It's definitely on the bucket list.

We took a stroll around the Botanical Gardens, ate breakfast at Kalaset conveniently located on our street, enjoyed the bounty on offer at TorvehallerneKBH a brilliant international market eatery around the corner from our apartment, made an obligatory stop in at the Marimekko store, walked the many pedestrian shopping strips (which reminded me a lot of Dublin) and visited little independent stores down around Laederstraede.  I had to close my eyes and keep walking past some amazing clothing stores, not much more can fit in that suitcase of mine. I wanted to bring back a set of Malene Helbak's Fjord inspired cylindrical jars.  I took an evening stroll, while the boys were at home resting, along Sortedams So and up through Norrebro.  The light a this time of day was stunning (9.30-10pm) and the people on the streets were full of good cheer and salutations.  It made me so happy. I know it sounds like a cliche but it was one of those moments that lingers with you for a lifetime.  Everything was perfect, in that moment.  

Oh, Copenhagen.  We leave you with wallets lighter and hearts larger. xx

Find my previous post on Copenhagen here, the 'unLike' Copenhagen guide here or Visit Copenhagen page here for more info. 

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A good time, not a long time.

We arrived in Copenhagen late on Monday night and right from the get go people have been remarkably friendly, assisting us on trains, sidewalks or shops whenever we've shown the slightest hint of uncertainty. We were told by a couple of Swedes in Berlin that the Danes were polled as the happiest people in the world.....but also have the shortest life expectancy. So Danes are here for a good time, not a long time....by account of a couple of Swedes anyway.
We REALLY love it here. Most places we go we can imagine ourselves living in for a year or two tops but Copenhagen is one of those city's that IF we were ever to leave Melbourne I could definitely see us living in.

It's way too early. Z fell out of bed. I've been awake ever since. I thought I'd do a post but I'm too tired to write. The boys are both sleeping. Softly snoring. The sun is shining brightly.... already, it's 5am.... and I'm heading back to bed. Night x